In a bowl, combine the warm water, yeast, and a pinch of the sugar. Let sit 5 to 10 minutes until foamy.
In a large bowl, mix the flour, salt, and remaining sugar.
Pour the yeast mixture into the flour and mix until a rough dough forms.
Knead 8 minutes in a stand mixer or about 10 minutes by hand, until smooth and elastic.
Cover and let rise for about 1 hour, until doubled.
Turn onto a lightly floured surface, gently deflate, and divide into 4 small loaves or 2 larger loaves.
Shape and place in floured loaf pans or on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Score the tops if desired.
Cover and let rise again for 35 to 45 minutes, until puffy.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped.
Cool on a rack for at least 15 minutes before slicing.