Veal Brains Grenobloise with Lemon, Capers and Croutons
Veal brains Grenobloise is an old-school French bistro dish made with cleaned, lightly poached veal brains, browned gently in butter, then finished with lemon, capers, parsley and crisp croutons. I make it this way because the first poach firms the brains before they ever hit the pan, which makes the final browning much easier and cleaner. The mistake to avoid is rushing the cleaning or cooking over aggressive heat, because this ingredient is delicate and can tear before it has a chance to turn golden.
Ingrédients
- 10 to 12 oz fresh veal brains
- 4 cups very cold water for soaking
- 2 tbsp white vinegar for soaking
- 6 cups water for poaching
- 1/4 cup dry white wine
- 1 tsp salt plus more to taste
- 1/2 tsp black pepper plus more to taste
- 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 4 tbsp unsalted butter
- 2 tbsp capers drained
- 1 lemon peeled and segmented
- 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice or to taste
- 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
- 1/2 cup small croutons
- 1 1/2 cups sweet potato purée
- 1 tbsp chopped parsley for the purée
- 1 small handful green beans
- 1 small handful baby carrots or carrot sticks
- 1 small endive halved or quartered
- 1 small cluster cherry tomatoes on the vine
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- Fresh herbs to taste
Instructions
- Soak the veal brains in very cold water with white vinegar for a few minutes.
- Gently remove membranes and bloody spots, then rinse under cold water until clean and pale.
- Bring the poaching water to a boil with white wine, salt and pepper.
- Poach the brains for 2 to 3 minutes, just until firmer.
- Transfer to ice water with a small splash of vinegar, then chill for 15 minutes.
- Peel and segment the lemon, chop the parsley, drain the capers and prepare the croutons.
- Blanch the vegetables in salted boiling water until just tender, then keep warm.
- Roast the cherry tomatoes with olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper at 300°F for 15 minutes.
- Mix chopped parsley into the sweet potato purée and keep warm.
- Pat the chilled brains dry, cut into pieces and coat lightly with flour.
- Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat until foaming.
- Brown the floured brains gently, turning carefully, until golden and hot through the centre.
- Add the capers, lemon pieces, lemon juice and parsley to the pan.
- Add the croutons last and toss gently.
- Serve immediately over the warm purée with the vegetables and roasted tomatoes.
Vidéo
Notes
Buy fresh veal brains from a trusted butcher. Clean and poach them before frying so they firm up and are easier to handle.